All the way
(2023 Ethos)
Life, as surf, is full of risks, which carry both benefits and drawbacks. Every day we make decisions, whether logical (glassy waves, decent-sized) or ill-considered (way bigger than we can surf, messy winds and currents, surfing with an inappropriate surfboard, just to name a few). Half the time, we make the right choice, but in the other half, we risk a lot of what matters to us most. But, as the poem says, most of the time the rewards outweigh the consequences. As surfers, we are willing to suffer physical pain, a sense of confinement, and humiliation in order to experience a state of bliss while having the magical feeling of ridding ‘that’ wave.
